On the eastern edge of the Atlas before mountains flatten into the desert plain, the Todra Gorge is one of Morocco’s most captivating natural sights. Here, terracotta canyons loom hundreds of metres above the rocky river bed, a system carved over the millennia by glacial melt. A paved road now links the canyon to the outside world yet visit in the morning, you can enjoy softer light and eerie shadows as you follow the course of the canyon by foot. Close by, the Dades Valley marks the traditional caravan trail between the desert and Atlas, a hauntingly beautiful route dubbed the “Valley of a thousand kasbahs”. Rising into the mountains, small berber villages dotted with palm groves are soon replaced by wilder rockier landscapes and hairpin passes set against snow-capped peaks.