Unloved and overlooked, modern day Lima sits on the Pacific seaboard and was once the jewel in the crown of the Spanish conquest. It has suffered a succession of devastating earthquakes over the centuries which have robbed the city of its early colonial glory. However, scratch beneath the surface and you find a city brimming with fascinating galleries and museums such as the Larco Herrera, Enrico Poli and Gold Museum as well as some of the finest cuisine in all of South America. At Lima’s historic heart, testament to its former grandeur, lies the cobbled Plaza de Armas surrounded by the presidential palace and impressive cathedral, final resting place, it is believed, of the most famous of all “conquistadores” Francisco Pizarro. Escaping the hustle and bustle of the centre, the modern suburbs of San Isidro and coastal Miraflores offer respite from city with elegant hotels, restaurants, parks and shops and even, in stark contrast, a captivating glimpse of Peru’s pre- history in the shape of impressive adobe pyramid Huaca Pucllana which dates back to 200AD.